In the north of the country, Lake Myvatn tacitly made its statement, laying low among grassy mounds and miles of clear sky. Here, and many other places, the grassy parts of the country had the look of being freshly-mown, as if one massive abandoned golf course. Peering in grass huts and driving along long roads, I half expected to find a cluster of workers with grass stains on their jeans, some evidence of the hard work it must take to look effortlessly pristine.
I decided I should come back some day when they were least expecting it and try to find out: had I only seen the tip of the iceberg? Or, was this the wrong question, the only thing that was keeping the skeptics from staying forever?





